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Catania

Ursino CastleFounded in 729 BC by colonists from Chalcis, Catania is a lively city, the second largest on the island after Palermo. It has been destroyed nine times in the course of its history, and every time the people have rebuilt it on the same spot. The elegant Piazza Duomo is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with its smart Baroque buildings of black or dark grey lava stone, set off with white limestone around the doors and the windows. The square is dominated by the splendid cattedrale di Sant'Agata, dedicated to the much-venerated patron saint, and originally built by Great-Count Roger the Norman in 1093; the apses are still recognisably Romanic. In the interior is the tomb of Vincenzo Bellini (1801-35), the local composer.

To the right of the cathedral is the Museo Diocesano (open 9-12.30, closed Mon), with a remarkable collection of artistic treasures from the churches of the city, and especially objects relating to the cult of Agatha. The north side of the square is taken up by Palazzo degli Elefanti, the city hall. Opposite, behind the Amenano Fountain, is the noisy, colourful fish market. In the centre of the square is the symbol of the city, the lava-stone statue of 'U Liotru, an elephant said to protect Catania from harm. Very ancient, perhaps Phoenician, after the 1693 earthquake it was topped with an Egyptian obelisk to make the fountain, inspired by that of Minerva in Rome. Close by is an interesting Greek Theatre, incorporated into the fabric of the city. From Piazza Duomo the main street, Via Etnea, leads north, by more Baroque churches, the Roman Amphitheatre (closed) and the Villa Bellini public gardens. Parallel to it, to the west, the lovely Via Crociferi, with a further array of Baroque churches, corresponding to the Greek and Roman temples of the acropolis. The opera house, Teatro Massimo Bellini, inaugurated in 1890 with a performance of Bellini's Norma, and much admired for its acoustics by the tenor Beniamino Gigli, is well worth a visit.

Catania is surrounded by many interesting towns and villages, such as ancient Randazzo; Caltagirone, famous for its ceramics; Militello, World Heritage Site for its Baroque architecture, and Vizzini, the birthplace of Giovanni Verga (1840-1922), acclaimed in 1884 as the greatest living Italian writer.

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© 2008 Ellen Grady.
Used by permission.

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